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    HP and torque of 1000 HTG motor stroked 70 mm

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    • Member since
      February, 2006
    HP and torque of 1000 HTG motor stroked 70 mm
    Posted by polaris pat on Wednesday, December 24, 2008 4:05 PM

    Can anyone give me an accurate HP and torque for a 1000 HTG motor stroked 70 mm?

    • Member since
      July, 2005
    • From: Anchor Bay MI
    Posted by chines on Thursday, December 25, 2008 7:50 AM

     I have a dyno sheet that says 259 hp and 146 tq.

    Self proclaimed President, Southeastern Muskamoot Bay Drag Racing Association. 5 members, and a few more that I'm considering.no dues. God bless the second amendment and thank god for the fifth.

    Any engineer can design an a-s-shole, they need an operator to make it s-hit!

    • Member since
      February, 2006
    Posted by polaris pat on Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:38 AM
    Who's dyno would that have been on? 

     

    • Member since
      August, 2005
    Posted by welch on Thursday, December 25, 2008 11:58 AM

    Pat....I'm looking at mine from a few years ago.....dynoed on Rob's Huff tech.....it made 262hp, 149.9 torque @ 9200 rpm

    • Member since
      February, 2006
    Posted by polaris pat on Thursday, December 25, 2008 12:10 PM

    Thanks, I dynoed mine yesterday at Iantomassi's and it made just shy of 240 hp, 128 torque @9800 rpm.  Could there be that much of  a variance from one dyno to another?

    • Member since
      August, 2005
    Posted by welch on Thursday, December 25, 2008 12:14 PM

    That is almost in line with non stroker #'s....that is strange....

    • Member since
      July, 2005
    Posted by Wise Man on Thursday, December 25, 2008 3:04 PM

    I have to say there is some component that is not happy. You need to make sure it is a 70 stroke motor for sure...why is it spinning 9800? How old is it? Pipes? Storm base or XCR? Peak power on that motor should be at a much lower rpm for sure. Once tuned properly after you degree and blueprint everything it should be a good motor for you.

    Pro Stock 1000 #10x Falmouth, Maine 2008 NSA Champion 2008 Wahl Cup Winner

    • Member since
      July, 2005
    • From: Sudbury Ontario
    Posted by neversatisfied on Thursday, December 25, 2008 3:05 PM

    Storm or xcr bottom?  Did you play with timing?  looks like you need some by the RPM were you made power. Unless you have the Jaws Pro max pipes.

    • Member since
      February, 2006
    Posted by polaris pat on Thursday, December 25, 2008 3:44 PM
    I have checked the stroke, it is 70 mm, and it is fresh, it is a storm bottom end with Jaws pipes, it has had compression taken out of it to run 1000 feet, the CDI box that I got with it when I bought the motor would not fire on number 3, replaced with a '96 storm box. Rob said to grind the stater and give it more timing until it made good power, before the compression was taken out it made its power at 9200-9400, so maybe a combination of taking away compression, not having the right CDI box or maybe not having the stater advanced enough may be causing this problem. Also was told the motor made 265 hp on Rob's dyno before I purchased it.
    • Member since
      August, 2005
    Posted by welch on Thursday, December 25, 2008 3:44 PM

    Pat....sounds like Gerry and Flav want to sell you some Christmas horsepower LOL.....somethings off for sure.....say hi to the boys for me....happy holidays....

    • Member since
      August, 2005
    Posted by welch on Thursday, December 25, 2008 3:53 PM

    Are you on Pumpgas???? My full race 1000's had 1000' plus in a radar run no pproblems....not even chasing it 140 plus mph....

    • Member since
      February, 2006
    Posted by polaris pat on Thursday, December 25, 2008 4:55 PM
    I am running C16 fuel. 
    • Member since
      February, 2006
    Posted by polaris pat on Thursday, December 25, 2008 5:03 PM

    What compression are you guys running to get those hp and torque numbers?  What CDI box works best with the storms?  Mine is a digital ignition, the bigger box, 96 and up.

    • Member since
      July, 2005
    Posted by Wise Man on Thursday, December 25, 2008 5:44 PM

           I would just lend this advice. Disassemble the motor, get a degree wheel on and interpret all the vital info. Then look at the pipes, carbs, stinger diameter, squish configuration, carb flange design etc. All are important to a happy motor. I can not say which ignition is "better" but I can say the old 3 pulse stuff works just fine.

         Why do you soften compression in 1000'? C-16 seems adequate to handle up to 16:1 in 1000' I would think. Did you dyno test any different fuels? C-14 or 14 plus? Who completed the case porting for this motor? Many variables to consider, but most certainly this motor should be stronger than the dyno numbers from Iantommasi's. And I know they have made many dyno laps, and have also built many strong strokers such as Benji's. Did they offer any advice or input? Good luck.

    Pro Stock 1000 #10x Falmouth, Maine 2008 NSA Champion 2008 Wahl Cup Winner

    • Member since
      July, 2005
    • From: Sudbury Ontario
    Posted by neversatisfied on Thursday, December 25, 2008 6:12 PM

    Check your CDI #  part # should be CU7302 and matching flywheel #FP9305  for 96-98 storm ignition. C-16 is too much octane for your motor now.  Do installed head volume cc check to see what your full stroke compression is now. Find top dead center with dial indicater fill spark plug hole with oil with syringe from drug store keeping track of how many ML of oil you place in combustion chamber. Fill to top of spark plug threads and minus 2ml. for spark plug. Now add 335 which is your clyinder volume and the # of ml you put in chamber,  and divide answer with head volume again.     EG:  335 plus 25 = 360    then divide by 25 = 14.4  comp. ratio     Gerry is very smart man I am sure he can help you out.

    • Member since
      February, 2006
    Posted by polaris pat on Thursday, December 25, 2008 7:08 PM

    Gerry said it didn't need that much compression for my application (1000' speed runs).  We didn't dyno with any other fuels.  I assume that HTG did the case porting, this was apparently one of Rob's personal sleds that he won Hay Days with in 2000 or 2001.  Gerry says that this is all that it should have as far as HP goes and I had been told that previously it was dynoed at 265 hp. so I wondered why the difference.  Has anyone had a motor dynoed at both HTG and Iantomassi's?  Do dynos vary that much usually from one to another? 

    • Member since
      July, 2005
    • From: Sudbury Ontario
    Posted by neversatisfied on Friday, December 26, 2008 8:22 AM

    I have been on Jaws, HTG, Iantomassi's, dynotech dyno's all will give you a different hp number. The main thing is you now know were the power band is, and the correct BSFC for jetting!  Dyno's do not win races they are just tuning aid.  I have seen hp # from 240-274 on HTG 1000 stroker's.

    • Member since
      February, 2006
    Posted by polaris pat on Friday, December 26, 2008 12:04 PM

    Obviously this motor was set up to run with this compression and timing, so do I put it back that way or give it a try the way it has been set up now, but that isn't going to have me running along with the sleds that are 260+ hp.

    • Member since
      July, 2005
    • From: Anchor Bay MI
    Posted by chines on Sunday, December 28, 2008 8:48 AM

     I sent you an email. Timing is critical on that engine and you can easily give up 20 hp just by running the wrong timing.

    Self proclaimed President, Southeastern Muskamoot Bay Drag Racing Association. 5 members, and a few more that I'm considering.no dues. God bless the second amendment and thank god for the fifth.

    Any engineer can design an a-s-shole, they need an operator to make it s-hit!

    • Member since
      March, 2007
    Posted by kak1000 on Sunday, December 28, 2008 2:14 PM

    Id say you shouldve just freshened that motor and tried dynoing it, obviously if it made that kindve HP. before and was robs motor he won with you mustve made some changes the motor didnt like and therefore are seeing lower numbers, less compression alone will give less HP.  Thats probabally to much octane for that motor too,  try 114 or even 112.

    • Member since
      October, 2007
    • From: north rose,ny
    Posted by evil96xcr on Sunday, December 28, 2008 2:15 PM

     70mm stroke what bore? mine is 67mm stroke made just over 260 hp

    the XCR is dead onto the EDGE!!! 2001 EDGE 800 1996 XCR 1010htg motor---DEAD MOTOR getting redone putting in 03 edge
    • Member since
      February, 2006
    Posted by polaris pat on Wednesday, December 31, 2008 2:34 PM

    Well when I purchased this motor I was told that it was fresh, but upon further inspection it appeared that it was badly wore and the CDI box didn't work,  I took it to Iantomassi to have it freshened and got a new CDI box and he suggested that we take away compression and timing for my application.  It has now gone back to HTG  and the crank is also out of phase, Rob says between 10 and 12 degrees.  I guess if I had of gotten what I was told I was getting when I purchased the motor I wouldn't be in this mess right now.  Some people just can't be trusted and won't come good for stuff like this when it does come to light.  This guy should give me a call and make this situation right.

    • Member since
      July, 2005
    Posted by foxfarmracing on Friday, January 02, 2009 9:35 AM

    polaris pat i know how you feel right now. i too bought a "fresh motor" from a low life ratt on this forum. my fresh motor had rusy crank bearings and a cracked cylinder. i also have never rebuilt a motor and left all the oil and dirt on it. i use a parts washer ! this ratt toke me for $4000.00. the lesson learned here is never buy a used motor unless you see it and see the dyno session your self. if rob has the motor now it is in good hands, he will make it run. good luck!

    • Member since
      February, 2007
    Posted by Juggernaut on Friday, January 02, 2009 9:56 AM

       Hey Pat How's it going.

            Gerri was right in taking some squish out of that motor for lake running. You really have to much Octaine with 116. Taking squish  and timing out of that motor  with the stator set back you could probubly run 114.The stinger dia is very important for converting a drag set up to a 1000 foot set up with god cold air.Crank out of phase is a big problem Rob will sort it out for you but call Greg at Jaws he will sort out the pipes for you great guy.See you on the ice P.S. running a Polaris this year. 

     

    • Member since
      May, 2007
    Posted by tripplec on Saturday, April 19, 2014 1:26 PM

    I know this an old post but I bought a HTG 1000 this winter for $5200 and never made it farther than 100'-150'. He says it ran perfect so either it's bs or he was about to have major problems too. A bent connecting rod, ruined cyl, piston and a bunch of stripped studs and I am out quite a bit of money. He offered a 10% refund but haven't heard from him since and never got the refund. That won't even cover the cyl and piston. All I did was buy the complete motor,pipes and carbs and put it in a xcr chassis and run it, only 150' though.

    • Member since
      November, 2005
    • From: NJ
    Posted by PolarcatJimmy on Wednesday, April 23, 2014 7:44 PM

    Figure about 2k to freshen up.

    "NY Pro- mod  Outlaw N/A " Thanks to: Polarcat Racing crew, J&J performance, HTG Racing, Microbelmont , Wiseco , Millenium technology,Braille Lithium , Mennetto Polaris, C&C Porting Tools, Falicon & Dragg-on perforemance for 2016

    Jimmy Chirchirillo -  1-347-242 -9241

    • Member since
      March, 2012
    Posted by eightpilot on Friday, May 02, 2014 3:38 PM

    Well the real story is as follows....

    The motor was crated and shipped over 2000 miles to the new owner.  Upon receipt the motor was not pressure or leak-down tested.  The motor was simply dropped into a chassis filled with 112 and run.  A water leak developed between the case and center cylinder... motor was ran at full rpm and pumped water through the center cylinder causing a bent connecting rod and stripped out head bolts at a minimum.  Connecting rod was straightened "BY HAND" and was run again.  You will not receive any refund for your lack of knowledge on how to prep/run a 9400 rpm 1000cc stroker motor...  I told you these HTG motors are notorious for water leaks especially by the exhaust flange and cylinder base.  No base gaskets, remember?  I also told you Bars Leak was a precautionary must as well... you didn't take that advise either.  I've tried to help you enough....I am finished.  Do not contact my cell phone again.

    • Member since
      November, 2005
    • From: NJ
    Posted by PolarcatJimmy on Saturday, May 10, 2014 7:31 AM
    Pressure & leak down tests are affective in your garage. Coolant & compression Leaks have a way of making themselves problemsome under load / acceleration and hard to diagnose .
    Bent rod : have gas shut off while trailering or storing or when sled is not on a level surface . Make sure carb floats /seats are working properly. Loosen plugs when cold starting sled . Don't forget to tighten . Leakstop is a bandaid .

    "NY Pro- mod  Outlaw N/A " Thanks to: Polarcat Racing crew, J&J performance, HTG Racing, Microbelmont , Wiseco , Millenium technology,Braille Lithium , Mennetto Polaris, C&C Porting Tools, Falicon & Dragg-on perforemance for 2016

    Jimmy Chirchirillo -  1-347-242 -9241

    • Member since
      May, 2007
    Posted by tripplec on Saturday, May 17, 2014 8:21 PM

    Well Eightpilot. Why would this motor do this damage in the first place?? I did not touch anything on that motor only to install it. If it didn't leak when you took it out, there would not be a leak when i got it, that's crazy.  You were the one who said that there wasn't any problems. It did not even get to 9000 rpm and it happened. You said you got it from a guy Chuck but couldn't give me his number so I could get some info on the motor. Apparently you couldn't keep this sled from standing on its rear bumper so you may have come to hard at one time and done some damage, that is possible. I think there is a video out there somewhere isn't it?  

    I have also talked to guys who pretty much have the same motors and have lost o rings before and never had the problems that I had and they don't use any of this bars leak in them either. You never mentioned anything about bars leak until after i contacted you with the problems.

    You think i have no knowledge about race motors,,,ahahahaha.

    I straightened the rod the best way i could, what did it matter, it was pretty much ruined after blowing 2 o rings anyway. I took my crank to a crank guy and he told me the rod was perfect straight, so some people do not need the fancy tools to fix things sometimes.

    So THANKS for the comment about my lack of knowledge, I would not go so low to say something like that about someone who i don't even know. I have been at this pro stock stuff for a long time and been around and helped with lots of strokers, so figure I know a little anyway, my pro stock XCR 800 have proven it several times.

    SO, CAN ANYBODY OUT THERE TELL ME HOW I SHOULD PREP as Eightpilot says A STROKER? I bought a perfectly running motor so he says, so i figure install it, make sure it's not air locked, warm it up on stand, check gauges, cool it down again a couple times and give it a try. If i did something wrong there, someone please tell me....

    So Thanks again Eightpilot, I just wish you were closer with your 800, we would see who got the knowledge......

    • Member since
      May, 2007
    Posted by tripplec on Saturday, May 17, 2014 8:44 PM

    Oh by the way, I bought his carbs also.

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