Snowmobile Racing

Test fit everything today.  So far, so good.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/jamie747/TRA012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/jamie747/TRA014.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/jamie747/TRA017.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/jamie747/TRA018.jpg

looking good ,almost there,will be cut on the sides like the 440 style or full sides??

Will have some lightening holes, but not cut down like the 440.  Those have a tendency to spread the button towers out with bigger HP.

good idea.

very nice work!  cant wait to see the finished product.

How will  heat affect this new clutch??  Cooler, hotter, the same??

That's two different questions, right ?

The heat should have very little affect on this material in comparing to the parts you have been running.

as for hotter or cooler, should  not be much different, as most of the heat comes from engine and belt slippage.  due to much tighter tolerances and "truer" (if that' s a word) faces, there should be less slippage, more efficiency, less heat.

IMHO.

Hey teacher, I am ready for the field trip now!!!

What time you be ready tomorrow ? I can pick you up at my store in Wakarusa ?

Anytime, you call it.  I will probably have to dash back and forth through the countryside to keep any enemies from following on the way to the secret shop!!

Unbelievable fascility, it made me just want to run around the shop pushing buttons and fire machines up to see how they work.  These clutches are for real and I cant wait to bolt one up!!  I cant believe the amount of time going into these pieces and the precision will be out of this world.

you guys are in the know on the tra what years did skidoo make forged primarys??? 2002 800 twins correct ? what else? if you mavhine the double angle off what do you do to the shoulder on the steam to get the wright sheave clerance??? if you machine it will be grater wright??? help me out here guys thanks !!! Mike

I honestly am not sure which year the forged parts started and stopped with the TRA 2.  From what I have found, there were a lot more different stems than I ever realized.  I'm not sure there is a definite answer to your question without doing some close measuring.

Be careful re-cutting a multi-angle sheave.  The sheave thickness may get very thin.

Jamie Bellman:

I honestly am not sure which year the forged parts started and stopped with the TRA 2.  From what I have found, there were a lot more different stems than I ever realized.  I'm not sure there is a definite answer to your question without doing some close measuring.

Be careful re-cutting a multi-angle sheave.  The sheave thickness may get very thin.

ok jamie what angle are you cutting on the sheave of this new tra you are building???and what stem are you setting it up to use ????   the demetion from the sheve to the shoulder on the shaft ??? what i mean is what is the demetion between the sheves at assembly?? what belt are you setting them up for?

 I would have 2 assume that angle would be around the typical 12 degree? The piece that he is building looks like more for integrety purpose and lighter weight and can bolt on original parts. very nice piece. Should have alot of sucess with it.

RT 1320:

 I would have 2 assume that angle would be around the typical 12 degree? 8 inch ur 8 1/2  diamension? The piece that he is building looks like more for integrety purpose and lighter weight and can bolt on original parts. very nice piece. Should have alot of sucess with it.

12 degree.

1.365 from shoulder to sheave, stackable up to 1.425.

RT 1320:

Jamie Bellman:

I honestly am not sure which year the forged parts started and stopped with the TRA 2.  From what I have found, there were a lot more different stems than I ever realized.  I'm not sure there is a definite answer to your question without doing some close measuring.

Be careful re-cutting a multi-angle sheave.  The sheave thickness may get very thin.

Thanks jamie.Where abouts on the sheeve would be 2 thin?

I am not in the know,

but I would recommend waiting for these clutches, especially on any higher H.P. sled.  We were very fortunate that I didnt eat two of those clutches at Martin.  The fact is that we severly crack two clutches in about 6 runs, luckly Big D with his usual hawk eyes during prep between rounds caught the cracks befoe I ended wearing it.  You have to also remember that the "Tar Biscuit" has about 40 passes total on the asphalt in the last two years with zero blown belts.  With a low 3,000 r.pm. engagement, no jack stand tuning, and constant proper torquing I would assume there could have been a lot more abuse to these clutches that came apart.

Bottom line, I would run for the hills when that engine was started with recut sheaves!!!

Jeff,

You would have to measure the thickness across the sheave and then see how much has to be removed to gain the angle you want.  In some of the internal pocketing, I'm afraid it could get pretty thin.